ASSC Conference in Tokyo
Since childhood, I’ve been fascinated by questions surrounding consciousness and the nature of human psychological experience, a curiosity that has persisted through time. My decision to major in mathematics at POSTECH, after exploring biology and physics, was a continuation of these questions. As I delved deeper into cybernetics and cognitive science, I realized how intricately my questions were tied to the evolution of technology and society. This realization led me to engage more broadly, organizing and managing various activities at the Korean Association for Consciousness Sciences (KACS) to enrich discussions on consciousness. However, my academic exploration did not stop there—I wanted to understand how consciousness was being scientifically approached in academia. Upon hearing that the 27th Annual Conference of the Association for the Scientific Study of Consciousness (ASSC) would be held in Tokyo, I knew I had to attend.
Not being a student anymore, I had to register as a regular attendee, which was quite expensive. However, I decided to take the plunge, thinking I could pair the conference with a trip to Tokyo. While I did miss the perks of student life, I also came to empathize with professors who bear the costs of attending such events for themselves and their students.
2024/06/29
Departure
My flight was scheduled for early afternoon, not long after lunch. Upon arriving at Incheon Airport by bus, I was struck by the modern, clean, and expansive facilities. As a recently built airport, it offered various amenities, including quiet spaces to nap or work. In line for my flight, I noticed that most of the passengers traveling to Tokyo were Japanese tourists, likely heading home after a trip to Korea. Curious about the area around Ueno Station, where I’d be staying, I asked a young couple for some recommendations using a translation app. The man kindly listed a few spots, and I thanked them as I rejoined the queue.
While wandering the airport, I came across an art installation, a structure covered entirely in mirrors. Walking inside felt like moving through an infinite space, a curious experience just before my flight.
Evening in Ueno
After a few hours, I arrived at Narita Airport in the early evening. Known for its distance from central Tokyo, I was concerned about navigating the trains and not getting lost. After about two hours, I finally reached Ueno Station. I quickly dropped my bags at my accommodation and headed straight for a nearby izakaya for a refreshing beer and some fresh seafood. Given how thirsty I was after moving my luggage all day without much to drink, that first sip of beer felt incredibly crisp and revitalizing.
The atmosphere beneath Ueno Station was lively yet somehow nostalgic. Every few minutes, the rumble of trains passing overhead seemed to make everyone speak louder, but there was a certain comfort in the noise.
My accommodation was a dormitory shared with about ten others. Since I was traveling on my own dime, I wanted to keep accommodation costs low. Over the seven days I stayed there, it was surprisingly comfortable. The bathrooms and showers were always clean, which I appreciated. The first night, exhausted from traveling and slightly tipsy from the beer, I fell asleep quickly.
2024/06/30
The road to Tokyo University was reminiscent of the student streets in Sinchon, Seoul—narrow yet well-organized. Tired-looking students dragging their bags got off the train with me, and the small company signs lining the streets caught my eye with their harmonious layout. On my way, I stumbled upon the famous red gate of Tokyo University, Akamon. I had heard there was a superstition among Japanese students about praying in front of this gate before their entrance exams. Seeing it in person, the grandeur and intensity of the red gate left a lasting impression.
Satellite Workshop 1: Structural Approaches to Consciousness
On Sunday morning, I got up early to attend the satellite workshop held before the main conference. After passing through Akamon and the economics department, I arrived at Ito Hall, a venue known for being off-limits to students under normal circumstances. The security was strict, and the architectural details inside were intricate and artistic. The geometric structure of the ceiling, in particular, caught my eye—it was a fascinating display of complex polygonal patterns that appealed to me as a math major.
The theme of the satellite workshop was “Structural Approaches to Consciousness,” and it focused on Integrated Information Theory (IIT). I knew that due to the influx of funding for consciousness research at Monash University in Australia, several prominent Japanese consciousness researchers had been appointed there. The workshop started with a lecture by Naotsugu Tsuchiya from Monash University and ended with a talk by Giulio Tononi, the creator of IIT at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. It was a meaningful time to discuss new research programs and the future directions of consciousness studies.
Dinner in Ikebukuro
After the workshop, I headed to Ikebukuro to find a place for dinner. I had planned to arrive earlier and explore the area, but the energy of the workshop made it hard to leave, so I arrived closer to 8 p.m. I went to a famous gyukatsu (beef cutlet) restaurant that I had found during my research and waited for 20–30 minutes in line. As I waited, I noticed that both in front of and behind me were Korean tourists. Though I was alone, I felt a strange sense of kinship with them. The gyukatsu was unlike anything I had tasted in Korea—the personal grill where I cooked the beef and the tenderness of the meat made it an unforgettable meal.
2024/07/01
Satellite Workshop 2: Perceptual Metacognition
The second satellite workshop focused on Higher-Order Thought Theory (HOT), one of the theories of consciousness, with a special emphasis on metacognition. Unlike the previous day’s workshop, this one was held at Waseda University, which is located closer to Tokyo’s bustling areas. The workshop kicked off with a lecture by Hakwan Lau, the creator of HOT. Despite his youthful appearance, he effortlessly lightened the mood with his witty and charming delivery. I was particularly excited to learn that he would be moving to Korea in September to become a director at the Institute for Basic Science (IBS). I even had a brief chat with him afterward.
As someone working in AI, I was especially intrigued by the talks on machine consciousness. One presentation, in particular, compared the concerns of AI and cognitive neuroscience, and its slides left a lasting impression on me. These presentations made me think more deeply about the complex connections between AI and human consciousness and provided fresh insights into the direction of my research.
My First Time in Shinjuku
A few days earlier, I had told a friend about my trip to Tokyo. Coincidentally, that friend had an acquaintance with longstanding ties to the city, and she suggested I meet this acquaintance. So, we arranged to meet in Shinjuku. After getting off at Shinjuku Station, I waited for her outside one of the large buildings. As I stood there watching the traffic lights change and countless people passing by, I felt a strange sense of calm. She, too, mentioned that she didn’t often visit such busy areas, so it felt like we were both tourists together.
We walked through Kabukicho, one of Shinjuku’s most famous areas. It reminded me of Hongdae or Sinchon in Seoul, but it also gave me a glimpse into Japan’s darker side, making for a fascinating experience.
We continued past Kabukicho and walked into the Golden Gai, a vibrant alley filled with colorful signs. She told me that this area, known as “Golden Gai,” was a space filled with the happiness and youthful spirit of Japan’s economy before the bubble burst. The signs and buildings sparkled like jewels, giving the area a unique atmosphere. Finally, we passed through Omoide Yokocho, a bustling street filled with people, before returning to Tokyo Station and saying our goodbyes.
2024/07/02
First Day of the Conference
The official conference started on Tuesday. Signs guiding participants to the conference were posted all over Ito Hall and other buildings. After a string of cloudy, windy days, the sun was shining brightly, making it impossible to walk without breaking into a sweat.
For lunch, I used Google Maps to find a ramen shop nearby with good reviews. The staff was friendly, and the place had a unique vibe, playing jazz and R&B on repeat. The ramen was a spicy, rich dish that would likely appeal to most Korean tastes—a satisfying and flavorful meal.
Stroll Through Ueno Park
In between sessions, I had a bit of free time, so I decided to visit Ueno Park, which was located near the university. It was a scorching day, so I stopped at a famous coffee shop, Komeda Coffee, to cool down. The quality of the coffee was unexpectedly good, a pleasant surprise.
Ueno Park had significant cultural landmarks scattered throughout. Passing through the park, I came across an old temple, its quiet and serene atmosphere instantly calming me.
Inside the park, there were renowned cultural facilities such as the National Museum of Western Art, the National Museum, and the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum. The National Museum of Western Art was famously designed by the French architect Le Corbusier, and its exterior displayed an abstract yet harmonious blend with the surrounding park. In the courtyard of the museum, Rodin’s sculptures were exhibited, including notable works like ‘The Thinker’, ‘The Burghers of Calais’, and ‘The Gates of Hell’. The Gates of Hell, in particular, left a profound impression due to its massive scale and intricate details, making it feel as though time had frozen around it.
While the National Museum of Western Art showcases traditional Western art, the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum supports contemporary art, with various installation pieces catching the eye right from the entrance. Walking through the exhibitions, I gained a deep appreciation for the artistic diversity that Tokyo has to offer.
After exploring the exhibitions, I visited nearby temples. These temples bore the clear marks of time, and within them, I experienced a deep sense of tradition. The serenity and peacefulness of these spaces felt as if they existed outside the flow of time itself.
Opening Keynote: Jun Tani
I headed to Yasuda Auditorium to attend the opening keynote by Professor Jun Tani, renowned for his work in cognitive science-based robotics. This auditorium is usually off-limits due to its strict security measures, so I felt fortunate to be inside. Throughout the presentation, I found myself mesmerized by the artistic chandeliers and murals adorning the hall. Professor Tani’s research, which spanned from Descartes to Varela with rigorous philosophical analysis, was truly impressive. Furthermore, his recent work applying information theory to active inference was particularly fascinating, offering a fresh paradigm in the field.
Welcome Reception in Ginza
The first dinner reception was held at a hotel lobby in Ginza. Despite the full day of conference activities, everyone was busily engaged in conversations, eagerly meeting new people. I, too, hoped that one day I would make a name for myself within this community, and so I tried to strike up conversations with as many attendees as possible. One of the professors I met was Shinsuke Shimojo from CALTECH. As I knew he had once mentored Professor Sang-Wan Lee from KAIST, whom I greatly admired, I was thrilled to have the chance to meet him by pure coincidence.
2024/07/03
Strolling Around the University of Tokyo
Whenever I found a break in the busy conference schedule, I took the opportunity to walk around. I wanted to take in the sights of the new campus and soak in the unique atmosphere. The buildings at the University of Tokyo followed mostly Western architectural styles, with especially captivating decorations at the entrances. The layout of the buildings and trees felt meticulously designed, adding to the campus’s charm.
Even the small resting spots between the buildings had a certain charm. While my heavy laptop weighed down on my shoulders, the walk was well worth it. Although I couldn’t avoid sweating in the scorching heat, I found relief in a café famous for melon soda located near the campus. On the way there, I stumbled upon a small shrine with an old, quiet beauty that made me stop in my tracks to take it all in.
As the heat bore down on me, I had no choice but to stop sweating and take a break. I visited the café known for its melon soda, right next to the campus. On my way, I passed by a small shrine with an old, timeless charm. Its serene appearance made me pause for a long while, feeling as if the shrine had stood still in time, quietly welcoming me.
Conference Schedule
I visited the presentation hall to support a Korean graduate student I’ve known for quite some time. I took photos of their presentation as well. The Fukutake Building, where the presentation was held, boasted a modern architectural style with a unique structure that spanned from the basement to the upper floors, all visible at a glance. The stairs connecting each floor reminded me of Escher’s Relativity and the layered scenes from the movie Inception, creating a surreal and dreamlike atmosphere that blurred the lines between reality and illusion.
Meeting a College Friend
After wrapping up the conference schedule for the day, I arranged to meet a college friend who is currently studying abroad at the University of Tokyo. It had been a long time since we last met due to the pandemic, so it was a joy to finally catch up in person. We decided to eat at a place recommended by Tokyo University students and ordered okonomiyaki. Both the taste and portion were satisfying, and the additional dongpo pork we ordered was so tender that it practically melted in our mouths. While reminiscing about old memories, we also had a deep conversation about our future plans and dreams. The pandemic had prevented us from meeting as often as we would have liked, making this reunion all the more bittersweet.
2024/07/04
Conference Schedule
This day featured a symposium where renowned scholars discussed functionalism in the philosophy of mind. It began with a witty presentation by Professor Ned Block, followed by discussions led by Professor Stephen Fleming, known for his work in metacognition, and Professor Anil Seth from the UK, who focuses on predictive coding theories related to consciousness.
Seeing these topics, which my friends and I often discussed informally, being addressed so deeply and formally made me feel proud to be there. It also filled me with hope for the future, as I reflected on how rewarding it would be to play a key role in this academic field as a young scholar. The experience reinvigorated my aspirations and determination to contribute meaningfully to the field.
Gala Dinner
The gala dinner was held at the prestigious Otani Hotel in Tokyo, the largest and most famous hotel in the city. By this point in the conference, I had already made several friends, and I attended the dinner with the hope of meeting their friends and forging new connections. I first introduced myself to some Korean researchers whom I hadn’t spoken to yet and also had the chance to meet friends who were pursuing their master’s degrees at the University of Tokyo. One friend and I were surprised to find that we had read the same books in the exact same order—an unexpected and delightful coincidence that kept us chatting for 30 minutes while standing.
The setting of the dinner was also quite impressive. The venue featured a man-made waterfall and a lake that added to the scenic beauty of the hotel grounds. The atmosphere was even more lively than at the first dinner, and I could feel the bonds between people growing stronger as the night went on.
2024/07/05
I woke up early in the morning and sought out a well-known brunch spot in the area. It was a place frequented by locals, filled with office workers reading newspapers and smoking cigarettes before heading to work. I ordered a simple French toast and coffee, taking my time to observe the shop’s interior and decorations. On one wall hung a ukiyo-e print, contrasting with the European-style breakfast I was enjoying, yet evoking a strong sense of traditional Japan. This subtle harmony made for a delightful meal.
Gathering of Korean Researchers
A Korean graduate student I’ve known for some time had arranged a lunch gathering for all the Korean participants. Unfortunately, they were unable to attend due to fatigue from the previous day’s presentation preparations. I took over leading the group and moved us to the restaurant I had booked. The backgrounds of the Korean researchers I met were incredibly diverse, spanning fields such as physics, anesthesiology, philosophy, neuroscience, psychology, and medicine. Many of them were active abroad, which made me realize just how many people, even in Korea, are deeply interested in the study of the human mind and consciousness. We concluded the gathering with hopes of staying connected in the future.
A Walk Around the Sanshiro Pond
After lunch, with some time to spare, I took a walk around Sanshiro Pond on the University of Tokyo campus. This is a place where the renowned Japanese author Natsume Soseki often strolled, and it also served as the setting for his novel Sanshiro. Despite being in the busy center of the University of Tokyo, Sanshiro Pond was astonishingly quiet and peaceful. The stillness of the water made it feel as if time had stopped, and since it was a quiet hour, I was able to explore the area alone at a leisurely pace.
During the walk, I noticed a foreign student with a limp, gazing deeply into the water, lost in thought. Something about the scene lingered in my mind and stirred a sense of empathy.
After leaving Sanshiro Pond, I wandered around the University of Tokyo’s buildings again. In stark contrast to the pond’s tranquility, the Western-style architecture of the buildings made it feel as though the pond belonged to a dream world.
Shibuya Night
On the last night of the conference, the organizers rented a club in Shibuya for the after-party. Since I arrived early, people were still sitting around the tables, chatting. To make the most of my remaining time in Tokyo, I decided to visit a bar in Shibuya recommended by a friend. The bar, located not far from the after-party venue, had a name that symbolized a gem blossoming within a stone, much like an amethyst. After two cocktails, I was feeling a bit tipsy and headed back to my accommodation within an hour.
2024/07/06
Exploring Asakusa
This was the only day with free time on the itinerary. I explored Asakusa with a Japanese friend, and it was packed with people. The temple, painted in vivid red and gold, was both striking and beautiful. In the main hall, people were tossing coins to make prayers or drawing fortunes from paper slips. I drew a lucky fortune, while my friend got an unlucky one and tied it up at the designated area to leave it behind.
After lunch, we visited a festival celebrating the story of the Weaver and the Cowherd, not far from the temple. The market was bustling with a variety of items, from kitchenware to knives and coffee brewing equipment. Many of the small, delicate items had the distinct charm of Japanese craftsmanship.
Shopping in Ginza
After parting ways with my friend, I headed to a stationery store in Ginza. The first store I visited was an old shop filled with handcrafted items, but the prices were quite high, so I moved on to another place. The second store offered more practical and reasonably priced stationery, and the entire building was dedicated to stationery items. I wandered through the various floors, from the 7th to the 8th, browsing a wide selection of items before finally purchasing some simple sketching supplies.
Grilled Eel Donburi
As evening approached, I found a restaurant serving grilled eel donburi behind an old department store with a prominent vintage sign. By the time the restaurant was about to open, locals had lined up behind me, and after waiting for about 10-20 minutes, I was able to enter. The main dish was grilled or steamed eel served over rice, and for my last dinner in Tokyo, I chose both. The eel, whether grilled or steamed, was soft and warm, melting in my mouth with every bite. What truly amazed me was eating it with a tea brewed from eel bones, which elevated the experience to a new level. Even as I was paying, I kept thanking the owner in Japanese, expressing how delicious the meal was.
2024/07/07
Goodbye, Tokyo
Early in the morning, I left my accommodation and headed to Narita Airport once again. Given how close Japan is to Korea, I hadn’t expected to feel much regret, but as I arrived at the airport, a sense of longing and nostalgia grew stronger. The busy conference schedule and the effort to squeeze in some travel had left me physically exhausted, but my heart felt full, especially as I had prepared gifts for my family and friends. As I watched the runway from Narita Airport, I realized how quickly time had flown by. Waiting to board my flight, my heart was filled with a mix of memories from this journey and excitement for the new challenges that lay ahead.
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